Broken Key Extraction: how the work is done

The tools are simple and precise. A hook extractor is a thin strip of spring steel with a barb at the tip; it slides along the groove of the keyway above or below the fragment, snags one of the cuts, and walks it out. A spiral extractor works like a tiny screw, threading into the ridges of the cuts and gripping as it turns. Fine-tipped extractor pliers handle a piece that shows above the face. A tension tool brings a turned plug back to rest. None of these push inward, which is the whole point: the piece comes out the way it went in and the cylinder stays whole.

Reading the cylinder for the cause

Even a lock in good order can break a key that was already worn, bent or fatigued, so the cylinder is examined for a contributing cause all the same. The locksmith looks for grit and salt crust in the keyway, a cylinder cap that has loosened and let the plug shift, pins that have worn flat so the key needs force to lift them, springs that have weakened, and burrs at the mouth of the keyway that drag on the blade. On an exterior door the strike and hinges are checked as well, since a bolt that binds in its pocket makes the key carry the load. Each finding shapes the advice given once the fragment is out.

When the piece is standing proud

A fragment that shows above the cylinder face looks like the easy case, and it is, provided nobody pushes on it. The locksmith grips it with fine-jawed extractor pliers or needle-point tweezers made for the purpose, steadies the cylinder with the other hand, and pulls straight out along the line of the keyway. If it resists, the plug is checked for rest position rather than the pull being increased, because a piece forced against lifted pins can bend them. A trace of dry lubricant at the keyway entrance eases a tight fit. The piece comes out whole, and the lock is ready to test.

Your car key, rebuilt rather than replaced

For a vehicle, the head of the key that carries the transponder chip and remote buttons has usually been saved, and a new blade cut and fitted to it, so the car recognizes the key as it always did. The door lock and ignition have been tested with it, and the ignition wafers checked for damage from the break. It is a good moment to have a second complete key made, since a car with one key is a car one snap away from a tow. Lightening the key ring so it does not hang on the ignition adds years to both key and cylinder.